Dead Sea and Cairo Egypt

Our final day of our study abroad was spent on an excursion to the Dead Sea where, you just lay there and float on the water.  I took a camel ride into the water.  We'd heard that a Dead Sea mud bath is luxurious and will soften your skin so, we smeared it all over us. 

Early this morning, seven of us boarded our one-hour flight to Cairo, Egypt.  We're staying at a wonderful Marriot hotel and this is a view of the Nile River from our balcony!!  The traffic is horrific and the city is insanely crowded.  There are millions upon millions of people.  But this hotel is exquisite! 

It's hard to believe our journey is almost over.  I'll be home in 3 days!!  So much to share.

Delicious Dinner

We spent our last evening in Jordan sitting in a circle around one of the most delicious dinners with Luma's family at their home.  The neighborhood/camp where Luma grew up was bustling with people, warm and welcoming. It was a really fun night.

5 cats, 1 donkey, same dumpster

When I went out to take pics, I saw 5 cats eating from a dumpster.  A few minutes later, I came back and found a donkey eating by the very same dumpster!!!

Mystery Nut

     I discovered this nut tree along the road on my way to the market.  I have no idea what kind of nut it is, but it's at a pretty stage of green.  A man told me that if I come back in September I can eat it.  Hmmm.
     Today, our group visited a center for domestic violence which was started by Queen Rania of Jordan. The queen is beautiful, educated in the U.S. and very loved here.
     Afterwards we had a final shopping day.  The streets are loaded with little stands that sell fresh fruit drinks of every kind for one JD (Jordan Danar - approx. a dollar).  They're delicious and refreshing. Yummy!
    The people love talking to Americans and will shout "Welcome to us."  We were walking along the busy streets just shopping when a few guys came up to us and just started walking with us and asked us how we like Jordan and where we're from.  Everywhere we've gone, they exhibit such warm hospitality.  It's so touching!      

Wild Poppy

     While the other students went to a lecture on women's studies, I stayed behind to work on a research paper that's due any day.  But, I did get a chance to explore the large fields behind our hotel and made some nice wildflower discoveries.  This shot of a wild poppy

was definitely a winner!       ACOR (American Center for Oriental Research) is the place we're staying.  Although it's in the middle of the city near the University of Jordan, it is situated in the middle of huge fields, brimming with wildflowers and plants.  It got this photo at about 5:00 this evening.  It turned out beautifully.  

Student politics

     Today we visited the University of Jordan where, we had political lectures and student discussions about the Israel-Palestine conflict.  The consensus seems to be that Arabs believe America sides with Israel, ignores Israel's wrong-doings and won't see the Muslim perspective.  The talks were respectful and spirited and we left feeling more aware.  We also felt a warm spirit of friendship.  The Arab people are generous and caring hosts who, want America to know all sides of the issues.
    I've taken almost 4,000 photos.  Many of them are numerous pictures of the same plants hoping to get just one, really great shot.  Fig, olives and cedars are the ones I've most photographed.  So much to shoot, so little time left!!!
     I miss; my family, friends, bed, warm showers and fellow ward members.
     When I leave this land, I will take with me some of the most beloved memories of a people who, desire our friendship and attention.  A land full of potential, divided by political unrest.  And, a desire to return to complete my book.

Shopping in Amman Jordan

Downtown Amman Jordan was a crowded mess when we went shopping today!  It's the craziest mix of modern and medieval you've ever seen!  There are open vegetable and fruit stands with open-back trucks full of veggies alongside skyscrapers and luxury cars.  Jordanians are friendly and sophisticated although many wear the traditional Muslim clothing which makes it seem like you've gone back in time.  Th funniest thing was to see a guy in the long dress-type shirts and typical Jordanian head scarf while talking on his cell phone.  Even the Bedouins, who live in dirty make-shift tents and tend sheep and goats in the desert still have cell phones.  It's baffling.
We just relaxed and shopped.  They still like to bargain, but not like in Jerusalem.    

Petra

I hiked Petra today.  It was exhausting, but I can say I did it!  On the way back, I rode a camel to the "treasury' site and a horse the final kilometer. Lots of Bedouins were selling their wares along the way, but the sad part is that they have their little children solicit the tourists to buy jewelry, scarves and drinks.  One little boy was maybe 4 and spoke no English, except to say, "You rest,: as he pointed to his mother's tent. Lots of the little children were tiny, maybe 4 or 5 years old.  

Hi from Jordan

Hi from Amman Jordan!
     This is a view from our veranda, but don't think luxury.  We're in the dryest area on earth, so they ration the water.  We're required to 'Navy shower.' Get wet.  Turn off water. Soap up. Turn off the water. Rinse.
     This city is much more modern than Ramallah, but the traditional Muslim attitudes are significantly stronger, so you see guys in those long, white dresses and head scarves everywhere.  From the time we arrived in Arab territory, the women mostly cover completely from head to toe.

 

Happy Birthday Matt

Happy Birthday today Matt!
And to Nan and Jecca, I wish you a happy birthday yesterday and Annette on the 20th.

Students Entertained Us

The students at Bir Zeit University put on a song and dance show followed by a feast tonight.  We were deeply touched by their warmth and hospitality.  It was hard to say good-bye, but we leave for Jordan early in the morning.  All of us will take Palestine with us in our hearts.  God bless Palestine.  

Palestinian children

This was a heart-breaking scene.  We visited Hebron today and, with all the checkpoints imposed by the Israelis, the Palestinians are not allowed through certain places.  This little boy followed us, but had to stay behind when we entered the Israeli segment of the city.  He was so cute!  There are lots of little children that run around unattended.  It's very sad.  

Palestinian people

Purple Robe Locusts

Hello from Bir Zeit University!
These locust trees added more shades of blue to my blog, but I couldn't resist.  There's a whole row of them that was absolutely stunning!    
Online access was only for their students, so I had to spend the morning in the room next to our group,working on a research paper.  That's where I met a fascinating woman named Nancy who, is from Connecticut, but living in Palestine, studying the Arab language and culture.  We spent over an hour talking about the delicious cuisine here.  Dinner was at a local barbeque cafe with a walk afterwards to get a view of the city.  

Blue thistles

Pretty thistles

The spring in Palestine is so beautiful!  These blue thistles line the streets and highways.  While they are so colorful, the beneficial pollinators come and share the nectar.  They will later turn to razor-sharp needles that would injure animals and humans,

May 19, 2014

Hello from Palestine!  

Yesterday we visited a village called Bet Estia about 45 minutes outside Ramallah, the capital city of Palestine where we are staying.  The people were very humble and happy to see us.  The biggest surprise has been how warm and inviting the people of Palestine are.  They're locked inside a wall controlled and patrolled by Israeli Defense Forces and want visitors.  The majority of this trip has been dedicated to lectures around different universities, all talking about the Israel-Palestine Conflict and, especially the wall.  Sympathy around the world is growing for the poor people of Palestine.  They're mostly an agrarian society, olive trees being their primary source of revenue.  The whole countryside, which is hilly and beautiful (a lot like southern Utah) is terraced with olive trees.  Rows upon rows, line the hills and valleys with olive trees. 

      The photo here was taken when we arrived and I saw a few teen-aged boys standing in the doorway of an old building with tools inside, watching as our van pulled into their village - rare event for them.  They didn't speak English, so I motioned it.  They backed away, very shy-like, but then insisted I join them in the photo.  They followed us throughout the village as we toured some Ottoman Empire-dated ruins.  They were so sweet and wanted to give us gifts and shake our hands.  Our hearts are deeply touched by these people.  They desperately want to join the rest of the world, but need permission and sometimes are denied, to go anywhere.  It's a very complicated mess.  

I'm getting some nice photos of plants, but realize I could spend months here researching and photographing, which might be what I do to finish my book.  I'm just going to see how far this trip takes me.  

Ramallah is a city of thousands of buildings all alike, built on the steep hills of canyon-like valley.  It's culture of old and new, rich and poor with no in-betweens.  Thought the Israelis and the Palestinians are in conflict, we love the both.  One wall was a sacred place where Jews go to pray.  It's beautiful to see young families all dressed in their traditional Jewish attire, little ones included.  On the other hand, it's confusing to see that those very people built a huge wall that imprisons their neighbors.  It's a real dichotomy.  

Meanwhile, the lesson is that people, in many ways are the same where ever you go.  They love their families, want a better world and work to support their loved ones.  We do feel safe here. In fact some are saying they feel safer in Palestine than they did in Israel.    

May 15, 2014

     We visited an archaeological site last night that took us under the Old Jerusalem.  After centuries of exchanging nations and conquerers, there are layers of cities built on top of each other in the same place as Old Jerusalem.  Herod built advance roads and water systems, bridges and walls that have been uncovered.
     Today we went to Jerusalem's Hebrew University where, we were shown botanical gardens (yeah!), ancient artifacts, spectacular views of the region, as well as a fascinating lecture on the Israeli-Palestine Conflict.
     Another miracle happened when we decided to visit the Jerusalem Center at Brigham Young University's campus.  We were told that it's very difficult to be allowed in.  But we walked the short distance anyway and, to our surprise, they allowed us to tour the campus!!!  I felt warm inside as they explained some of the functions and features of BYU Jerusalem.  The campus is situated on the Mount of Olives near the Garden of Gethsemane.  They gave us a free concert in the auditorium which, has huge windows that overlook the entire city.  As soon as that music started, I fought back tears.  It was a very spiritual experience to think of how significant this place is to the Lord. Thinking about Jesus was born, taught, healed and died in this area was almost overwhelming.

     

Beautiful Olive Tree

May 14 afternoon

The most famous landmark in Jerusalem is the building with a gold dome called The Dome of the Rock.  It's governed, strangely enough, not by Jews, but by Muslims.  They're very militant about how long we can visit the sight and they make women wear these shawls if we aren't completely covered, which is why I'm wearing a turtleneck jacket in 95 degrees.  They have guards shooing you about.  Pretty soon, the loudspeakers all over the city called the Muslims to prayer so they cleared the ground of all non-Muslims and, the Muslims came flooding through the gates.
We had some free time so I explored the Old Jerusalem area and drank their famous treat which is icy lemonade in clear cups with mint leaves...very refreshing!
Israel is one of the best-kept secrets in the world.  Also, when many of the shop owners learn we're Mormons, they love us and give us special mint tea.  They try to get you to come into their shops and browse, so they offer you coffee or tea, but with Mormons, they know we don't drink that, so they give us mint tea.  I think they know us because of the BYU Jerusalem Center, which is adjacent to the Garden of Gethsemane.      

May 14 2014 - morning

Early this morning, I took a taxi back to the Garden of Gethsemane so I could get some really good shots of the Olive trees.  My driver, Hannad, took me to the top of the Mt. of Olives where a man had a camel named Koja.  For thirty shekels he used my camera for some fun shots and took me for a long camel ride.  There was nobody around except some police and an old man in typical Arab garb, so it felt like I had Jerusalem all to myself.  You can see the Dome of the Rock below my right hand.  I fell in love with Jerusalem this morning.  I long to return here.

May 12, 2014

      We waved goodbye to the beautiful beaches of Tel Aviv heading for Old Jerusalem, the most sacred city on earth.  The Israeli countryside seemed more like what I had imagined Tuscany to look like with, hillsides covered in vineyards and olive trees, Mediterranean villas, cyprus and olive trees and open fields.
     Jerusalem is situated in the mountains.  It's cooler and dryer here. Old buildings and narrow, stony streets made the city of Old Jerusalem immediately recognizable.  We went to the wailing wall and shopped in the cavernous markets where, the smell of spices filled the air.  Little school children all dressed in their uniforms were just leaving school and the streets were crammed with moms picking up their little ones.
     Moshe' (Moses in English) our driver had dropped us off at the front gate of an exquisite old chapel converted into a hotel named St. Georges Cathedral.  Although it's very old, they've converted it into a luxury hotel with Mediterranean stone floors, spacious hallways with ancient artifacts and modern upgrades. We were served a buffet dinner of various vegetables, spiced rice and meats, a variety of olives and oils, pita bread and honey cakes in the huge dining hall on the first floor which, looked like it could be in the movies.  Whomever said France has memorable food never, ever visited the middle east!!!!  The basic sandwich is a falafel which is a pita pocket filled with hummus (so much better than any hummus in the states) and various fresh or cooked vegetables.  Yummm!  Breakfast here is often hummus, eggs, salad with delicious vinegarette dressing, melon smoothies, an assortment of cheeses and sauces that would knock your socks off.  Everyone agreed it's the best food they've ever eaten.
     There's an open courtyard garden situated in the center of our hotel with pathways, lemon, lime and orange trees, hollyhocks and lavender, along with tables and chairs to just sit and read or take in the sun.
Speaking of sun, it's very cool and breezy, so we all bundled up to be outside.

  

P.S. That's Judner and me in front of Notre Dame.  Talk about exquisite!!!  The stained glass windows, arched and painted ceilings and extravagant architecture could take days to observe if you had the time. They had an actual service going on with the music of a lovely soprano voice and a priest in long robes conducting the meeting.  That's a place of worship for sincere believers and it made me feel warm inside.  

Arrived in Israel May 9 2014

     We've arrived in Israel!!!  Although it's 3:30 in the morning and the airport is super quiet, I'm still excited to finally be here.  I can't wrap my head around the fact that I'll be in the same places where Jesus walked and performed so many miracles.
   
     According to one classmate, who has been here before, Jews are friendly toward Americans. Security at the airport is tight, but it makes you feel safe.  And, I was expecting Israeli soldiers with machine guns posted at every corner, but not a uniformed officer in sight.

     The first photo is our group at the Eiffel Tower, the first attraction we visited. We navigated mass transit for 3 days in a whirlwind tour of the city's main attractions, scurrying from train to subway.  I figure we walked about 25 miles a day.

      France is a lot greener than I imagined.  The French countryside looked like right out of painting, with farms checkered in varying shades emerald as we were coming in for a landing.   

     

     One of the first things I noticed was how many people smoke.  They even smoke in restaurants, which makes your food taste strange.    

     

     The most disturbing reality of France is their restrooms, which are unisex, meaning everybody, men and women share.  Called toilettes, they're the size of construction port-a-john back home and, the flushers are often separate.  Three of us couldn’t figure out how to flush one public toilette, a chrome closet including, sink, toilette, mirror and walls.  We never found the flusher. 

     This morning, on our way to the Louvre, we were navigating the subway, which is dirty and stinky when, suddenly it opened up into a large, elegant shopping mall, like we’d entered a strange, new world (known as America).  My bladder was calling. 

     The signs and arrows for the toilettes kept leading to what looked like a beauty salon.  For ten minutes I asked 3 different store clerks where the toilettes were until Greta and I finally walked into this salon-looking place, where inside was a front desk with a clerk and a line of ladies waiting.  Laughing at our own lack of understanding, we reached for the correct change and commented on our confusion over this custom. 

     A slender, well-dressed older woman in the line, obviously American, looked down her nose at us and said, “You know what they say…if you don’t like the custom you can always leave the country.” You’d have thought we offended her grandchild.  “No.  I don’t know that saying.”   I couldn’t help myself.  I smiled very sweetly and said, “Thank you so much for your advice.” Bet you were equally confused the first time you came to France, you ex-patriot!!

     The front desk clerk lady supervised this vending-machine looking box where you deposit your coins and dispenses change.  Only, you’re not allowed to get your own change. That’s where the front desk clerk comes in.  She personally reaches down, takes the coin change and hands it to you, as if it was illegal to take your own change.  It’s about $3.00 American value to use the potty.

     When my time came, a man directed me to the next available stall, like an attendant at a department store fitting room.  He unlocked the door and held it open for me like a bellman holding the hotel room door, waiting for me to step inside.  In French, he directed me to hang my purse. I don’t know any French.  I only know this was the command because when I looked confused, he got more animated and pointed at my purse, then the hook.  “I know what to do with this!  I just never did it with a man watching me!”   All the while he still held the door!  That toilet looked larger than life, growing bigger and more terrifying by the millisecond.    I, seriously thought he was going to stand there watching me like some commode cop.  I was too terrified of him and frankly, had to pee so badly that I immediately obeyed, not knowing if he was going to keep standing there.  As soon as I entered that little closet, the echo of the slamming door was deafening.  Was he going to time me? Would I be charged extra after a certain number of minutes?  I never peed so fast in my life! 

    The wash basins are out in open community spaces where men and women, boys and girls, mom and babies – diapers and all, share.  There isn’t another public restroom for six miles.  Otherwise I might have waited.   Gender-friendly or not, I don’t know why, but I thought about those beautiful, spacious, luxurious “LADIES”, not unisex, restrooms in Five star hotels in Las Vegas, of all places, and including every hotel on U.S. soil who exhibits to females the respect and privacy they deserve.  I don’t even gamble.  But I am considering writing a book about how women’s restrooms made America great. 

Miracle number one; The Delta attendant almost didn’t let me board in Salt Lake because the middle names on my passport and flight ticket didn’t match.  I silently prayed for help.  Heidi, a nice Delta lady at the gate, took what seemed like hours of persistence to make it straight, telling me the govt. of Israel might not let me through because of it.  Thank you Heidi!

Miracle number two; Greta, Judner and I headed back toward the hotel last night, facing the confusing mass transit system on our own.  I was literally in the act of offering a silent prayer of help and protection when I noticed a lovely young lady reading a bible.  I smiled approvingly.  Adrian the sweet girl, smiled back and asked where we were from.  Coincidentally, she’s from Georgia (the state) and offered to escort us to our train.  Dear Adrian!  She was an angel and answer to my prayer. I should have tried to give her a Book of Mormon, but I didn't bring any.  Dang!

Miracle number three: (Please don’t be mad, Luke and Holley).  I woke up this morning and thought I’d left the camera in the hotel lobby last night, on account of being so drowsy that I was dropping off while looking at photos.  Sobbing, I asked the front desk clerk, but it wasn’t turned in.  Finally, in desperation, I went back to the room, knelt down to pray, and then happened to look under some blankets where the camera was hidden.  Whew!!! Another prayer answered!          
Miracle number four; We had a layover in Amsterdam, where the airport security again noticed the middle name discrepancy between my passport and ticket and, almost didn't let me through. That time I felt calm.  A still, small voice told me that everything will be fine.  The lady was really nice and made the necessary changes.

Here's a big stark contrast; Paris is a very old, but charming city.  The people are abrasive and condescending, but I don't think it's just to Americans. That's just their nature.  When Greta and I asked a lady at the Louvre what the inscriptions on the paintings meant, she tipped her nose up, gave a long, irritated blink of her eyes and would not look at us.  She snapped, "It means After Jesus Christ."  I didn't take it personally.

On the other hand, from the moment we landed in Amsterdam (for a 2-hour layover) the warm, helpful people touched our hearts.  The airport was fresh and modern, the water and restrooms were available, free of charge or resentment and, the food was more fresh and elegantly presented than in France.  Go figure. Bonus; It might be that Nordic blood, but the men were tall and handsome.  oo la la.  French men were too metro for my taste.            

Writing and researching for my book, "Plants of the Bible," was the project that launched my interest in going to the Middle East for a study abroad through my school.  We leave May 5th for the holy land with a stop in Paris, France.  Now that the science and history portion is near completion, it's time for the photo phase of my book. Wish me luck and, feel welcome to send photography advice.  I've got a good camera, so hopefully the lens will do most of the work.      

Bon voyage and Cinco de Mayo

Hi all;
     After 6 months of planning and preparing, I'm packed and ready to go.  Cinco de Mayo is just one of the many coincidences connected to this Middle East excursion and, given my love for celebrating the 5th of May, it's a fitting day to embark on my journey.

The final chapters of my, "Plants of the Bible" book